The hidden kingdom of Upper Mustang in the Himalayan citadel of Nepal, is a world in itself. The daunting peaks, steep valleys and harsh weather kept the region untouched until recently. In the map of Nepal, the region appears as thumb penetrating into Tibet. Mustang is hence culturally and geographically Tibet that survived the turmoil that Tibet went through, just because it was politically Nepal. The region continuously nourished Tibetan Buddhism and cultural in its original form.
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| Inside the walled city of Lomanthang |
The Frenchman, Michael Pascal was the first westerner to travel to Mustang in 1955. He encountered 'Khampa' warriors in Mustang and lived in the world that mastered Buddhism, practised polyandry and used no wheels.
The place is featured in the book '1000 places to see before you die' and also makes to the top places to travel recommended by reputed guide books like Lonely Planet, Rough Guide etc.
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| Mediation caves in the village of Dakmar village, Upper Mustang |
While Mustang's monuments, culture, and landscape remains more or less the same, accessibility have changed. It is no more a month long trek like the Frenchman did. Mustang could be visited in as less as 6 days from Kathmandu and back. The extension of dirt road have made the trip easier and shorter for many. It is a subject of argument if the road was good decision and there are both pros and cons of it. One thing is for sure that development projects in Mustang should be executed preserving its fragile culture, environment and heritage.
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| Dirt road leading to the Mustang in trans-Himalayan region of Nepal |
Jeep tour, 4WD trip or road trip of Mustang is becoming more popular these days. The fast changing landscape, world's deepest gorge and the mystic culture of Mustang make it one of the best Jeep tour in the world. The idea is to cross Himalaya following the popular salt trading route and visit the reminiscence of ancient civilisation, one of the intact Tibetan bastion and Buddhist country with some of the best Himalayan scenery.
The tour begins with the leisurely stay in the lake city of Pokhara. Dominated by Phewa Lake, greenery and the gigantic snow peaks in the north, Pokhara is scenic and relaxed. From Pokhara the road head further west to the town of Beni, where we meet Kali Gandaki River that drains the Himalayas of western Nepal. The dirt road then follow upstream Kali Gandaki valley towards north to Tatopani (Hot Spring). The place used to be a popular hub for trekkers to relax after long trek in Annapurna. The place is still popular place of recreation with natural hot spring. It is possible to drive further to Kalopani on the first day from Pokhara. The drive further from Tatopani passes through the deepest gorge wedged between Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) and Annapurna (8,091 m).
The valley widens up at Kalopani (2,100 m). The place is also a transit between lush green lower valley and the arid country of Mustang. The valley is lush and bright with planted terraces, pine forest and the charming Thakali village. Thakali is one of the culturally rich ethnic group lived in the valley for over 1,000 years. They were popular for their hospitality being along the salt trading route.
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| Annapurna I as seen from Kalopani village along the Kali Gandaki valley |
Drive from Kalopani passes through villages of Marpha and Tukuche, popular for the apple farming. There are distilleries in both villages producing some of the best Nepalese liquors. It is interesting to visit the distilleries and the orchard.
Jomsom is relatively bigger, capital town with hospital and airstrip for the district. The town is scenic with the closeup view of Mt Nilgiri (7,061 m). If one happened to spend more time in the town visit the Moostang Eco Museum, local monastery and hike to Dhumba Lake.
Kagbeni at the confluence of Kali Gandaki and Muktinath River is where the border of Upper Mustang begins. This is where restricted permit for Mustang is registered. The road further goes north following Kali Gandaki River.
Tsarang village is another recommended place for night halt. It is also interesting to visit Chungsi cave monastery on the way. The cave is believed as a meditation cave of Guru Rinpoche. Unlike other man made caves of Mustang, this is natural cave with self immersing figures of deities on the wall. The place is really tranquil and the sanctuary for vaulters.
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| Chhosar cave monastery |
The walled city of Lo Manthang is the destination of the journey. About 900 Loba (people of Mustang Kingdom) live in the compact mud and stone houses surrounded by 6 m high earthen wall with watch towers. The place was the capital of former Tibetan kingdom Lo established in around 14th century. Being along the most popular salt trading route, the place was prosperous both in finance and Buddhist intellect. The place is only about 50 km away from present day Tibet border. In 18th century, the Buddhist kingdom peacefully choose to become vassal of Nepal. The kingdom continuously practised the Tibetan lifestyle and culture, undisturbed by any unrest that its neighbours went through. The walled city is reminiscence of medieval Tibet hidden in the citadel of majestic peaks of the Himalayas.
Mustang tour / trek could be organised only with government registered and reputed company. iTourNepal.com P Ltd have been organising many such culturally rewarding treks and tours in the Himalayas of Nepal for over two decades. Our educated, experienced and caring guides make the Himalayan trips unique. So write us of visit our website for more exciting
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